New Balance 990

990

Balance 990 was the result of almost four years of development in which the design team worked without restrictions on time or money. They produced a technologically sophisticated running shoe that, despite a lofty price tag, was a huge success, both in the running community and amongst those seeking a comfortable, everyday sneaker.

As other companies began manufacturing their footwear abroad, New Balance continued to focus on quality by sticking with local production, thus ensuring that the 990v1 maintained its high standards. By the time the second version was released in 1998, ‘Made in the USA’ had become its badge of honour.

In the 2000s, the New Balance 990 continued to evolve through various updates, each one featuring new technological innovations like the ABZORB cushioning of the v2 in 1998 and the ENCAP midsole of 2012’s 990v3.

Over time, the 990 achieved widespread acclaim because of its consistent quality and its celebrity fans, who helped popularise it as a casual shoe. When the 990v4 came out in 2016, it fit perfectly into the rising ‘dad shoe’ trend, and its transition to the lifestyle category was almost complete.

A series of high-fashion collaborations followed, and the New Balance 990v5 was launched in 2019 with a powerful slogan noting its broad appeal, which ranges from supermodels to dads. Renowned fashion labels including JJJJound and Aimé Leon Dore designed unique colourways, with the latter’s Teddy Santis being made Creative Director of New Balance’s Made in USA line in 2021.

In 2022, the 990v6 proved that, despite its contemporary focus on lifestyle and fashion, New Balance had not forgotten the sneaker’s sporting roots as its midsole was enhanced with high-performance FuelCell cushioning – a technology that was normally reserved for the brand’s elite-level running shoes. Nevertheless, it remained popular as a collaborative model, and in 2024, Italian label Loro Piana created an elegant colourway that became highly sought-after.

Today, the New Balance 990 retains the retro charm of the original while also being packed with modern features. Despite its age, it continues to represent the best of the brand, making it the ideal flagship sneaker.