Nike Air Force 1

Air Force 1

Since the release of the Nike Air Force 1 in 1982, this remarkable sneaker has captivated a wider global audience than perhaps any other shoe in history. The first AF1 was a high-top aimed at basketball players with supportive, flexible and durable features like a sloping high ankle, Air cushioning and a pivot-circle tread. One year later, the Low version broadened the appeal of the Air Force 1 by adding an option that offered just as much support but even more freedom of movement. Then, in 1994, the Air Force 1 Mid was introduced to provide a balance between the two.

While early Air Force 1 designs were generally made for men, women’s sizes were being created by the early 2000s. This led to the production of new last shapes and several models with a boosted platform sole. There was the PLT.AF.ORM, whose raised midsole looked like it had two layers stacked atop one another, the Shadow, which was covered in dual-layered effects, and the Sage Low with its chunky wedge sole and stripped back look. Then there was the rebellious Fontanka, whose telltale triple swoosh, vibrant colourways and random elements were inspired by rave culture. There was also a High model called the Sculpt and the angular Pixel with its blocky sole and square perforations.

Over the years, the Air Force 1 range has been expanded to cater to almost all ages, with sneakers for kids (both girls and boys), youth-specific designs and even models for toddlers and babies. While many of these are just smaller versions of the adult shoes, some have received minor adjustments. For example, those for younger kids often go without the Air cushioning in the heel, simply taking the name Nike Force 1. 

With such broad appeal, the AF1 became an instantly recognisable shoe worldwide, making it ideal for use in Nike’s collaborative efforts. It actually established the concept of the sneaker collaboration and the limited edition run through the Colour of the Month project. Set up in 1984, this saw a few Baltimore shops get their own specific colourways. The movement has since been celebrated with a series of Air Force 1 designs, some sporting the OG swoosh, others a new jewel one. Like the ‘84 sneakers, they feature colour-blocking effects, with bright oranges, yellows, reds and blues alongside classic white-on-white models. 

When the original Colour of the Month series came out, it allowed the Nike Air Force 1 to stay relevant; by the time the retro version was released, tens of collaborations had already been launched. The first of these were crafted for the rappers and record labels of the early 2000s, whose affinity for the sneaker had increased its popularity. Soon after, in 2005, the brand began its long-lasting collaboration with Los Angeles streetwear store Undefeated by releasing just 500 pairs of an Air Force 1 in two colourways – purple and black. In 2012, skateboarding lifestyle brand Supreme also produced the first of many AF1 designs, this one having a classic gum sole and a water-resistant black upper.

In the late 2010s, Nike’s collaborations became more and more frequent. 2017 was the 35th anniversary of the Air Force 1, and Nike celebrated by partnering with two remarkable creatives – era-defining designer Virgil Abloh and superstar rapper Travis Scott. The former crafted a legendary Nike x Off-White Air Force 1 model, which would be followed by several more in the years after, and the latter made the first of his many sneakers for the brand. Another luxurious Nike Air Force 1 was designed by fashion boutique A Ma Maniere in 2019. Called Hand Wash Cold, it featured a suave black and grey colour scheme over its nubuck and suede outer, alongside iridescent highlights.

Building on these popular collaborations, a hugely productive period came next, as the early 2020s saw a slew of high-class designs with singers, sports personalities and luxury fashion houses. Stussy began the decade with a Low release in all-black and tan colourways, then followed it up with a Mid in black and white. Around the same time, lifestyle brand Kith released its own AF1 models with premium white uppers and fine details like a green swoosh embroidered into the forefoot and gold-tipped laces. Yoon Ahn’s Ambush was next, putting out a pair of bold colourways, one in royal blue, the other a rich green and both with vibrant yellow swooshes.

By this time, Nike was partnering with more and more fashion houses. Louis Vuitton offered the brand another chance to work with the highly talented Virgil Abloh, and together the group forged no less than 47 stunning colourways in everything from all-white to shiny gold to refined brown. They even played about with the colour of the sole unit, two of the shoes having an offbeat pink cupsole. Then, in 2023, just a year after the release of this incredible collection, Nike revealed that Tiffany & Co. would be making its own Air Force 1. The resulting shoe had a sleek black upper overlaid with Tiffany Blue swooshes and another of the brand’s hallmarks adorning the heel in the form of a sterling silver piece. Later that year, fashion brand Jacquemus worked on its own interpretation of the AF1. Known as the J Force 1, it came in both black and white colourways, each a sophisticated reworking of the original with a hand-stitched sole, silver swooshes and a JF1-branded lace dubrae.

So prolific was Nike during this period that the brand also created a number of Air Force 1s with celebrity music artists Billie Eilish and Drake, as well as tennis star Serena Williams. With Eilish, Nike released both High and Low versions in monochromatic colourways of green, white and beige. Meanwhile, Drake’s offering, which was made as part of his Nike subdivision, NOCTA, was a classic all-white AF1 sneaker. Like the influential rapper, Serena has worked closely with Nike, her Serena Williams Design Crew coming up with the composition for her 2022 Air Force 1. This pristine white sneaker was decorated with golden highlights, including Serena’s signature on the heel and the years of her Grand Slam wins.

The desire of so many big names to have their own Air Force 1s has ensured its long history, and the shoe has inevitably reached a number of key landmarks along the way. Nike has always taken the opportunity to celebrate these milestones with collaborations like the 35th anniversary’s Travis Scott and Off-White designs, as well as retro and new models. 2007 marked its 25th year, which saw the release of a heritage Nike Air Force 1 based on the original. Although many of the later women’s versions would add variations to the sneaker, the Air Force 1 ‘07 was made to look just like those early AF1 Lows. It proved to be a popular retro, with many colourways later being added to the collection. In 2022, 40 years of the iconic sneaker were celebrated with a set of 40th anniversary edition AF1s that combined vintage aspects with commemorative details for an updated look. 

On other occasions, Nike has released entire packs dedicated to important moments in the company’s history. For example, the NBA Pack was established in 2018 to honour the basketball teams that helped the Air Force 1 to become the shoe it is today. Other renowned collections include the Just Do It Pack, whose designs are defined by their repeated use of the famous Nike slogan, and the Have A Nike Day Pack, whose smiley face logo stands out across the shoes that have been added to the set since it was launched in 2019.

This continued reinvention has been a standout theme in the history of the Nike Air Force 1. Whether it be through small adjustments like the slightly thicker midsole on the LV8 1, 2 and 3 (which stands for “elevate”) or more noticeable differences like the extra-high collar on the SF Air Force 1 boot, the brand is always mixing up the sneaker’s design. Notable Air Force 1 editions include the LE, which focuses on classic all-white and all-black designs, and the WB models, which come in wheat-coloured nubuck. Then there are the LX, the SE, the Essential and the Craft, all of which accentuate the high-quality craftsmanship and defining features of the AF1.

As such a long-running sneaker, many of its variants have employed Nike’s most up-to-date technologies to enhance comfort, durability and aesthetics. Models like the React incorporate Nike’s foam cushioning of the same name, while the upper of the Air Force 1 Foamposite is made of a smooth polyurethane mould. 2012’s Lunar Force 1 took things in a new direction with its Lunarlon cushioning and Nike’s Hyperfuse upper. Other models have been built for challenging weather conditions, integrating waterproofing technologies like Gore-Tex (GTX) or having a sturdy construction such as that of the boot-like Air Force 1 Luxe.

After announcing its Move to Zero sustainability program in 2019, Nike also began to use more recycled materials, leading to the Crater Foam midsole. This cushioning unit blends standard Nike foams with recycled Grind Rubber to create an Air Force 1 that is both comfortable and sustainable. This was followed by the Crater Flyknit, which added the brand’s lightweight one-piece Flyknit upper to the shoe. In the early 2020s, a series of AF1 models with the name Next Nature were also released, the name symbolising the use of sustainable materials. Some included the moniker Impact to emphasise the powerful effect of the shoe, both in terms of its aesthetic and its minimal environmental footprint.

Throughout its lifetime, the Nike Air Force 1 has taken many different forms in thousands of colourways. It has been both a sports shoe and a lifestyle sneaker worn all over the world. It has been redesigned by luxury fashion brands, famous musicians and sporting celebrities, and gone through several key milestones in the process. It has been combined with Nike’s most revolutionary technologies and included in its forward-thinking sustainability projects. It has been a key part of Nike’s history and no doubt will be a key part of its future as well.